Day 30, Tuesday, August 14, 2018
Mammoth Cave, Kentucky
I was excited to visit Mammoth Cave National Park! I drove down from Louisville for the day and entered the Park on the Flint Ridge Road. Note: the Park’s website warns visitors to disregard GPS directions, which can take you the wrong way. My GPS took me this alternate way, but still managed to get me to where I needed to go, with a bonus of seeing a section of the park that I probably wouldn’t have seen otherwise!
The drawback was that I either somehow missed the entrance sign or there wasn’t one. I saw a sign on the main road on the way out, but it wasn’t like the typical National Park entrance sign – it left a lot to be desired. I guess that’s just a reason to go back!
The Flint Ridge Road takes you by the Mammoth Cave Baptist Church and Cemetery. The original church was built in 1827; the current building is from 1927. It is in rough shape, with a hole in the back door, no electricity or other conveniences, and a very old, rustic outhouse in back. It was very remote, just a few miles from the main Visitor’s Center for the park. I got out and checked it out; the door to the church is not locked, so anyone can go inside. It was so eerily quiet there, it made me a little nervous…
I wandered the cemetery and read some of the headstones as well. Floyd Collins is buried in the cemetery. He died in 1925 after a rock collapse trapped him in Sand Cave, a newly discovered cave nearby; attempts to rescue him made the national news and kept people waiting for word for over two weeks, but ultimately he had died of starvation by the time rescuers reached him.
Sadly the church was vandalized with orange spray paint in September, about a month after my visit. The trail to go see the entrance to Sand Cave is here too, but I didn’t take the opportunity to hike it. I’m kicking myself now!
When I got to the Visitor’s Center, I chose to do the Historic Tour. It was interesting, and explored the long history of cave use. Mammoth Cave is the largest cave system in the world with over 400 miles of explored cave passages.
Native Americans used the cave for thousands of years and then stopped. In the late 1700s, Americans in the area began to use the cave for saltpeter mining; saltpeter is used in the manufacture of gunpowder. They couldn’t get it anymore from the British due to the Revolutionary War, so local suppliers could make a good profit!
After the war the need for saltpeter dried up so they opened the caves up for commercial tours. They had used slaves to mine the saltpeter; the slaves learned how to navigate in the caves, which was helpful in their later work as tour guides. The tour takes you by some of the old saltpeter mining equipment, which was left in the cave after the commercial viability of the venture dried up.
Mammoth Cave was also used for a brief period as a tuberculosis sanitarium – unfortunately it proved ineffective at helping people with tuberculosis. Total darkness experiments in the cave were also short-lived.
Unfortunately for me, the “Historic” section of the cave isn’t really all that pretty. This section of the cave has the largest rooms, but there aren’t a lot of beautiful “cave features” that you see in other caves. And you will certainly be disappointed in my photos; it is very dim inside and they don’t let you use flash… I did enjoy seeing the “graffiti” from the early 1800s; I saw one signature from 1839!
On my next visit I want to do the “Domes and Dripstones Tour”; this tour shows visitors the stalactites and stalagmites, as well as a huge dripstone section called Frozen Niagara, named because it looks like Niagara Falls when it is frozen in the winter. The Extended Historic Tour is also on my list, because you get to see the stone huts that remain from the period when Mammoth Cave was used as a tuberculosis sanitarium. That would be cool!
I really enjoyed my visit, but would also love to do more hiking there. Temperatures were in the 90s with high humidity the day that I visited so I opted not to hike. It would be fun to stay and camp there too! You can also float the river, or kayak there!
I stayed that night at the Glendale Campground in Elizabethtown, Kentucky, a convenient jumping off point for my explorations the next day! This family owned campground was only $20, and my campsite was right near a pond where a Green Heron was fishing!