Day 84, Sunday, October 7, 2018
Capitol Reef National Park, Torrey, Utah
I was really excited to see Capitol Reef National Park. It had been on my bucket list for years, and it was one of the Big 5 National Parks in Utah! The photos I had seen were beautiful, so I definitely wanted to check it out for myself.
Of course, when I got there the first order of business was to get my National Parks Passport stamp and some postcards! I also happened to get there in time for a Ranger talk on Geology, so I joined in.
Capitol Reef used in be an inland ocean, and the landscape today formed over millions of years. There are different sedimentary layers, and fossils, and some of the oldest fossils in the world, Giant Stromatolites, are found here! Unfortunately for me, it started to rain again and the thick clay soil made a mud that wasn’t very pleasant to hike in. It was cold too. Like the kind of cold where I was wearing long sleeve shirt, hoodie, jacket, winter hat and gloves!
I drove the scenic drive, which at 7.9 miles seemed a bit short for a National Park. It is an out and back drive, with beautiful cliffs and colors all around, and the rain made the colors pop even more. After the scenic drive, I went to the historic settlement section of the park, the Fruita Historic District. Fruita is located at the confluence of the Fremont River and Sulphur Creek. It was established by Mormon settlers in 1880, and extensive fruit orchards were planted. The community had homes and a school.
In 1955 Fruita was purchased by the Park Service to be included into Capitol Reef National Park. The orchards are maintained, and the fruit from about 1,900 trees is used to make delicious pies that are sold from the bakery there. The Gifford Homestead home sells a variety of pies from the apricot, cherry, pear, peach, plum and apple trees. I was lucky enough to be there when they had pies, and my apple pie was delicious!
There are also some remaining buildings in the Fruita district, including an 1896 one-room schoolhouse, a few cabins, the Gifford Homestead house and a barn. The last residents to live here sold their property to the Park Service and moved away in 1969, so there was a long history of habitation in the area. I always find it so interesting to imagine what life would have been like in such a harsh, isolated climate, without modern amenities. The Gifford house didn’t have electricity until 1948!
Sadly the rain wasn’t really letting up, and I still didn’t feel like hiking in the thick mud, so I said goodbye and “see you later” to Capitol Reef. I went into Torrey, Utah and found the Chuckwagon Deli, where I ordered a grilled cheese sandwich with chips and a pickle.
While I ate, I perused their eclectic book collection!
After lunch, I headed out on Highway 12 – a gorgeous Scenic Byway! You drive along a ridge for part of the way, with stunning views of the rocky desert landscape. It was so incredible! And still cold. It was actually snowing for part of the drive, although it wasn’t really sticking to the road. I went through Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument, but I didn’t stop. That is a place I dream of going back to! Unfortunately, I passed by just after the closing time of the Visitor’s Center. Next time!
I also passed Bryce Canyon, which was my destination for the following day. Since it was so cold, I got a room for $50 at the Adobe Sands Motel in Panguitch. It wasn’t very nice but it was cheap, and warm! I ventured out for Subway for dinner, because there wasn’t much open on a Sunday night… And, I ate part of my pie!
As I look back, I know that not every day traveling is going to be great. And my day at Capitol Reef was an example of that. It was raining and muddy and just not a fine day for hiking and touristing. I was cold, and frustrated by the rain drops on the camera lens, which made spots on most of my pictures. And most of the views were tempered by the fact that I spent them sitting inside the car or near the road, instead of a few miles up a trail where I like to be… But, that was just one day, and I’m not ready to rule out Capitol Reef. I’ll go back and hope for better weather. So, as I sat in that little 50s motel room that night, eating my Subway sandwich and pie, I got excited about visiting Bryce Canyon the next day!